My Puppy Eat His Poop? Coprophagia Causes, Fixes
Why does my puppy eat his poop? Learn the science behind coprophagia in dogs, common causes, vet-recommended solutions, and when to worry about this behavior.
If you've ever watched your puppy enthusiastically snack on something they just deposited on the lawn, you're not alone. Coprophagia — the technical term for stool-eating — affects an estimated 25% of dogs at some point, with puppies being the most frequent offenders. A 2018 study presented at the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior found that coprophagia is so common it may represent a normal, albeit undesirable, canine behavior rooted in ancestral den-keeping instincts.
While the sight makes most owners gag, understanding why your puppy does this is the first step toward stopping it. Below, we break down every documented cause, rank solutions by effectiveness, and tell you exactly when a vet visit is warranted.
What Is Coprophagia and How Common Is It in Puppies?
Coprophagia comes from the Greek kopros (feces) and phagein (to eat). In veterinary behavioral medicine, it's classified as a normal exploratory behavior in puppies under 6 months and an abnormal repetitive behavior if it persists into adulthood.
According to the Merck Veterinary Manual, coprophagia peaks between 3 and 6 months of age. The behavior typically falls into three categories:
- Autocopphagia: Eating their own feces
- Allocoprophagia (intraspecific): Eating feces of other dogs in the household
- Interspecific coprophagia: Eating feces of other species (cat poop, horse manure, wildlife droppings)
A large-scale survey by Dr. Benjamin Hart at UC Davis, published in Veterinary Medicine and Science, found that 16% of dogs were classified as "serious" stool eaters (caught in the act five or more times), and 77% of coprophagic dogs preferred feces less than two days old. Freshness matters to them.
The 7 Most Common Reasons Puppies Eat Poop
There's rarely a single cause. Most cases involve a combination of developmental, environmental, and sometimes medical factors. Here's what the evidence shows:
1. Normal Developmental Exploration
Puppies explore the world with their mouths. Between 8 and 20 weeks, oral investigation is at its peak — they'll mouth, chew, and taste virtually everything. Stool is warm, soft, and readily available. For many puppies, this is simply part of sensory development, no different from chewing a shoe or licking a wall.
2. Maternal Den-Cleaning Instinct
Dams naturally consume their puppies' feces during the first three weeks of life to keep the whelping area clean and reduce scent that could attract predators. Puppies may observe and mimic this behavior. This ancestral drive is one reason coprophagia is considered partially innate rather than purely learned.
3. Nutritional Deficiencies or Malabsorption
If a puppy's diet lacks adequate calories, protein, or specific nutrients — or if a condition like exocrine pancreatic insufficiency (EPI) prevents proper nutrient absorption — the puppy may eat feces in an attempt to reclaim undigested nutrients. This is more common in puppies fed low-quality diets or those with underlying gastrointestinal disease.
4. Hunger or Underfeeding
Puppies have high caloric needs. A puppy being fed insufficient portions — or one in a multi-dog household where another dog steals their food — may resort to eating feces to fill their stomach. This is especially common in large-breed puppies during rapid growth phases (3-6 months).
5. Boredom, Isolation, or Lack of Stimulation
Puppies left alone in a yard or crate for extended periods with no enrichment may eat feces out of sheer boredom. The ASPCA notes that dogs kept in barren environments are significantly more likely to develop coprophagia and other repetitive behaviors.
6. Attention-Seeking or Learned Behavior
If you've ever chased your puppy, yelled, or reacted dramatically when they ate poop, you may have accidentally reinforced the behavior. From the puppy's perspective, eating that pile on the grass made their human run toward them and engage — even negative attention is attention. Some puppies learn to eat stool specifically to trigger a response.
7. Medical Conditions
Less commonly, coprophagia can signal an underlying health issue. Conditions associated with stool-eating include:
- Intestinal parasites (roundworms, hookworms, giardia) competing for nutrients
- Exocrine pancreatic insufficiency (EPI) — the pancreas fails to produce digestive enzymes
- Diabetes mellitus — increased hunger (polyphagia) drives unusual eating behaviors
- Cushing's disease (hyperadrenocorticism) — also causes polyphagia
- Hyperthyroidism (rare in dogs, more common in cats)
How to Tell if It's Behavioral or Medical
Before trying behavioral fixes, rule out medical causes. Here's a practical decision framework:
| Sign | Likely Behavioral | Possible Medical Cause |
|---|---|---|
| Puppy is otherwise healthy, energetic, growing well | ✅ Yes | Unlikely |
| Weight loss or failure to gain weight despite eating well | Unlikely | ⚠️ Parasites, EPI, malabsorption |
| Excessive thirst and urination alongside coprophagia | Unlikely | ⚠️ Diabetes, Cushing's |
| Diarrhea, greasy stools, or undigested food in feces | Unlikely | ⚠️ EPI, parasites, IBD |
| Only eats poop when left alone or bored | ✅ Yes | Unlikely |
| Eats poop and then looks at you expectantly | ✅ Attention-seeking | Unlikely |
| Visible worms or rice-like segments in stool | Unlikely | ⚠️ Intestinal parasites |
Proven Strategies to Stop Your Puppy from Eating Poop
No single method works for every puppy. The most effective approach combines management (preventing access) with behavior modification (changing the puppy's response). Here are strategies ranked by evidence and practitioner consensus:
Immediate Management: Prevent Access
This is the single most effective step. If the puppy can't reach the stool, they can't eat it.
- Leash-walk for potty breaks: Keep your puppy on a 6-foot leash during elimination. The moment they finish, use a cheerful "let's go!" and reward them with a high-value treat (freeze-dried liver, small cheese pieces) as they move away from the spot.
- Supervised yard time: Accompany your puppy outside. Pick up feces immediately after elimination using a bag — don't let piles accumulate.
- Crate or confine when unsupervised: A properly crate-trained puppy cannot access their own stool when you're not watching.
- Separate from other dogs' waste: If you have a cat, use a covered litter box or place it behind a baby gate. Pick up dog waste from shared yards immediately.
Teach "Leave It" and Recall
A reliable "leave it" cue is your best long-term tool. Here's a force-free training progression:
- Stage 1 — Closed fist: Place a low-value treat in your closed fist. When your puppy sniffs and pulls back, mark (click or say "yes!") and reward from your other hand with a higher-value treat. Repeat 10-15 times per session.
- Stage 2 — Open palm: Place a treat on your open palm. Cover it with your hand if the puppy dives for it. When they wait or look at you, mark and reward from the other hand.
- Stage 3 — Floor level: Place a treat on the floor, cover with your hand. Gradually reduce hand coverage as the puppy learns to wait for permission.
- Stage 4 — Real-world proofing: Practice "leave it" with safe items on walks before progressing to actual stool encounters during supervised potty breaks.
Pair this with a strong recall ("come!") — when your puppy finishes eliminating, call them to you and reward heavily. Over time, the pattern becomes: eliminate → come to human → get amazing treat.
Dietary Adjustments
- Ensure adequate feeding: Follow your puppy food's feeding chart based on expected adult weight, not current weight. A Labrador puppy expected to reach 70 lb needs more calories than a 25 lb puppy of the same age. When in doubt, consult your vet about portion sizes.
- Feed a high-quality, AAFCO-compliant puppy diet: Look for the AAFCO statement "complete and balanced for growth" on the label. First ingredient should be a named protein source (chicken, lamb, salmon — not "meat by-products").
- Split meals: Feed 3 meals per day until 6 months, then transition to 2 meals. More frequent feeding reduces hunger-driven coprophagia.
- Add fiber or digestive enzymes (with vet guidance): Some veterinarians recommend adding 1-2 teaspoons of canned pumpkin (plain, not pie filling) per 10 lb of body weight to make stools less palatable. Digestive enzyme supplements like ProZyme may help if malabsorption is suspected.
Over-the-Counter Coprophagia Deterrents
Products like For-Bid, CoproBan, and NaturVet No-Coprophagia contain ingredients (often Yucca schidigera extract, garlic, or B-complex vitamins) designed to make feces taste unpleasant. Here's what you should know:
| Product | Active Ingredients | Price Range (2026) | Reported Effectiveness |
|---|---|---|---|
| For-Bid | Wheat gluten, sodium glutamate, Yucca schidigera | $12-$18 | Mixed — works for some dogs, not others |
| CoproBan | Simethicone, artificial flavoring | $15-$22 | Low — limited clinical evidence |
| NaturVet No-Coprophagia | Yucca, parsley, garlic (small dose), digestive enzymes | $10-$16 | Anecdotal support; no controlled studies |
| Homemade: canned pumpkin | Soluble fiber | $2-$4 per can | Moderate — changes stool texture/taste |
Environmental Enrichment
A mentally and physically tired puppy is less likely to engage in coprophagia out of boredom:
- Exercise: Puppies need approximately 5 minutes of structured exercise per month of age, twice daily. A 4-month-old puppy should get about 20 minutes of activity per session.
- Food puzzles: Feed meals from a Kong Wobbler, Outward Hound Fun Feeder, or snuffle mat to extend eating time and provide mental stimulation.
- Chew outlets: Provide appropriate chews (Benebone, Nylabone Puppy, bully sticks) to satisfy oral exploration needs.
- Training sessions: 5-10 minutes of positive reinforcement training 2-3 times daily tires a puppy mentally, reducing boredom-driven behaviors.
What NOT to Do: Ineffective and Harmful Approaches
Some commonly recommended "solutions" are either ineffective or potentially harmful:
- Rubbing the puppy's nose in feces: This is an outdated punishment technique that creates fear of the owner, not of the stool. It does not reduce coprophagia and damages your bond with your puppy.
- Adding meat tenderizer (papain) to food: While sometimes suggested, there's no evidence it reduces coprophagia, and unregulated enzyme doses can cause gastrointestinal upset.
- Hot sauce or bitter sprays on feces: Capsaicin can irritate a puppy's mouth, esophagus, and stomach. The temporary discomfort doesn't reliably deter the behavior and introduces unnecessary risk.
- Shock collars or prong collars: Aversive punishment for coprophagia creates fear and anxiety, which can worsen the behavior or displace it into other problem behaviors. Only positive reinforcement and management-based methods are recommended.
- Ignoring it completely: While some puppies outgrow coprophagia, others don't. Ignoring the behavior also means missed opportunities to detect underlying medical conditions.
Coprophagia and Parasite Risk: What Owners Need to Know
Eating feces — especially from other dogs or unknown animals — exposes your puppy to parasites and pathogens:
| Parasite/Pathogen | Transmission via Feces | Symptoms in Puppies | Zoonotic? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Roundworms (Toxocara canis) | Eggs in infected stool | Potbelly, diarrhea, vomiting, poor growth | Yes — visceral larva migrans in humans |
| Hookworms (Ancylostoma) | Larvae in contaminated stool/soil | Anemia, bloody diarrhea, weight loss | Yes — cutaneous larva migrans |
| Giardia | Cysts in infected stool | Diarrhea, greasy stools, dehydration | Yes |
| Whipworms (Trichuris vulpis) | Eggs in stool (persistent in soil) | Bloody diarrhea, weight loss, anemia | Rarely |
| Coccidia (Isospora) | Oocysts in stool | Watery diarrhea, dehydration in young pups | No (species-specific) |
This is why prevention matters beyond the "ick factor." A coprophagic puppy eating stool from an infected dog at a park can acquire a parasite burden that causes clinical illness. Keep your puppy on a veterinarian-recommended monthly parasite preventive (products like Simparica Trio or Interceptor Plus cover intestinal parasites and heartworm) and maintain a regular fecal testing schedule — typically at every puppy wellness visit (every 3-4 weeks until 16 weeks) and then annually.
Age-Based Expectations: When Puppies Typically Stop
Understanding the timeline helps set realistic expectations:
- 8-16 weeks: Peak oral exploration. Coprophagia is extremely common and usually developmental. Focus on management and prevention.
- 4-6 months: Many puppies begin to outgrow the behavior naturally as oral exploration decreases. Continue management.
- 6-9 months: If coprophagia persists beyond this age, it's more likely to become a habitual behavior requiring active intervention.
- 9+ months: Persistent coprophagia in an adolescent or adult dog warrants a veterinary behavioral consultation. Your vet may recommend a certified applied animal behaviorist (CAAB) or veterinary behaviorist (DACVB).
Frequently Asked Questions
Can puppies get sick from eating their own poop?
Eating their own freshly produced stool carries relatively low risk, since any parasites or bacteria present would already be in their system. However, eating stool from other animals — especially unknown dogs, cats, or wildlife — can introduce new parasites, bacteria, and even toxins (if the other animal ingested something harmful). Cat feces are particularly risky due to Toxoplasma gondii and higher protein content that makes them more appealing to dogs.
Does pineapple stop dogs from eating poop?
The theory is that bromelain, an enzyme in pineapple, makes feces taste unpleasant. While some owners report success, there are no controlled studies confirming this. A small amount of fresh pineapple (1-2 chunks for a medium puppy) is safe as an occasional treat, but the sugar content means it shouldn't be given daily. Canned pineapple in syrup should be avoided due to added sugar.
Should I punish my puppy when I catch them eating poop?
No. Punishment — yelling, nose-rubbing, physical correction — does not reduce coprophagia and often makes it worse by teaching the puppy to eat stool quickly before you can intervene, or to hide the behavior. Instead, interrupt calmly (a neutral "uh-uh" or a recall cue), redirect to an appropriate activity, and reward the alternative behavior. Focus on prevention and positive reinforcement.
My puppy only eats cat poop from the litter box. Is this different?
Cat feces are especially attractive to dogs because cat food is high in protein and fat, and cats have shorter digestive tracts, meaning more undigested nutrients pass into their stool. This is interspecific coprophagia and carries higher health risks, including Toxoplasma exposure and bacterial pathogens. The solution is management: use a covered litter box, install a baby gate with a cat-sized opening, or place the box in a room your puppy cannot access. Products like the Litter-Robot or Cat Genie enclosed units can also help.
When should I be concerned enough to call the vet?
Contact your veterinarian if your puppy's coprophagia is accompanied by weight loss, chronic diarrhea, vomiting, lethargy, visible worms in stool, excessive thirst or urination, or if the behavior suddenly begins in a previously non-coprophagic adult dog. These signs suggest an underlying medical condition that requires diagnostic testing. For behavioral coprophagia that doesn't improve after 4-6 weeks of consistent management, ask your vet for a referral to a certified behavior professional.
- ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435 (24/7, consultation fee applies)
- Find a certified behaviorist: AVMA Find a Veterinarian
- AAFCO feeding standards: Check your puppy food label for the AAFCO nutritional adequacy statement
Coprophagia is one of the most common — and most reviled — puppy behaviors. The good news is that with consistent management, positive reinforcement training, and a veterinary check to rule out medical causes, most puppies stop eating stool well before their first birthday. Stay patient, stay consistent, and remember: your puppy isn't trying to disgust you. They're just being a puppy.
Jonas Cole
All our authors care for dogs every day — read more of their work on the authors page.



