How to Stop a Dog From Eating Poop: Coprophagia Causes and Cures

Why Do Dogs Eat Poop? Understanding Coprophagia

If you've ever watched your dog gleefully snack on feces — their own, another dog's, or worse, a cat's — you're not alone. Coprophagia (from the Greek kopros meaning feces and phagein meaning to eat) is one of the most common behavioral complaints dog owners bring to trainers and veterinarians. A study published in the Journal of Veterinary Behavior found that approximately 25% of dogs engage in coprophagia at some point, with about 16% classified as frequent offenders.

The good news: most dogs outgrow the behavior by adulthood, and for those that don't, a combination of environmental management, dietary adjustments, and positive reinforcement training can effectively stop it. The key is identifying whether the root cause is behavioral, medical, or both.

Medical Causes: When Eating Poop Signals a Health Problem

While most coprophagia is behavioral, several medical conditions can trigger or worsen the habit. Understanding these is essential because no amount of training will resolve the problem if an underlying disease is driving it.

Conditions That Can Cause Coprophagia

According to the Merck Veterinary Manual, coprophagia can also result from calorie-deficient diets, particularly dogs fed low-quality kibble with poor digestibility or those on overly restrictive weight-loss plans without veterinary supervision.

Behavioral Reasons Dogs Eat Feces

Once medical causes are ruled out, the behavior usually falls into one of several behavioral categories. Understanding which applies to your dog helps you choose the right intervention.

The Behavioral Coprophagia Spectrum

Exploratory/mouthing behavior (puppies 3–8 months): Puppies explore the world with their mouths, and feces is simply another novel texture and smell. This is developmentally normal and typically resolves with maturity and consistent management. Approximately 80% of puppies who engage in coprophagia stop by 12 months of age if the behavior isn't inadvertently reinforced.

Maternal behavior (nursing dams): Mother dogs lick their puppies' genital areas to stimulate elimination and consume the waste to keep the den clean. This instinctive behavior typically ends when puppies are weaned at 6–8 weeks.

Attention-seeking: If you've ever chased your dog while yelling after catching them eating feces, you may have accidentally reinforced the behavior. Dogs learn that grabbing poop triggers an exciting game of chase and intense human engagement — even negative attention is still attention.

Anxiety and stress: Dogs in high-stress environments — kennels, shelters, chaotic households — may eat feces as a displacement behavior, similar to how some dogs lick their paws excessively when anxious.

Resource guarding/scarcity instinct: Dogs from hoarding situations, puppy mills, or backgrounds where food was scarce may eat feces as an instinctive response to perceived food scarcity. This is particularly common in rescue dogs who experienced early nutritional deprivation.

Learned behavior from other dogs: In multi-dog households, one dog's coprophagia can spread to others through social learning. A 2018 UC Davis study found that dogs living with a coprophagic housemate were significantly more likely to develop the behavior themselves.

Breed predisposition: Some breeds show higher rates of coprophagia. Shetland Sheepdogs, terriers, and hounds are overrepresented in coprophagia surveys, possibly due to their strong foraging and scent-driven instincts.

How to Stop a Dog From Eating Poop: A Step-by-Step Plan

Effective coprophagia management requires a multi-pronged approach. No single strategy works for every dog, but combining environmental management with training and dietary optimization produces the best results. Here's a framework organized by intervention type.

Step 1: Environmental Management (Immediate Results)

Remove the opportunity before you can retrain the behavior. This is the single most impactful step you can take.

• Supervise all outdoor time — leash your dog during potty breaks for at least 4–6 weeks while retraining. Use a 6-foot standard leash (not a retractable) for close control.
• Pick up feces immediately — carry waste bags on every walk and scoop your yard at least once daily, ideally twice. Products like the Doo-Wow Dog Poop Scooper ($18–$25) or the Wee Scooper ($12–$15) make this faster.
• Block access to cat litter boxes — use a baby gate with a cat-sized opening, install a top-entry litter box (e.g., Modkat XL, $80–$100), or place the litter box behind a door propped open just wide enough for the cat.
• Muzzle-train for walks — a basket muzzle (Baskerville Ultra, $25–$35) prevents ingestion while allowing panting and drinking. Introduce the muzzle gradually using positive reinforcement over 1–2 weeks.
• Cover or fence off areas where wildlife (geese, rabbits, deer) leave droppings in your yard.

Step 2: Dietary Optimization (1–3 Weeks to See Results)

Improving diet digestibility reduces the nutritional appeal of feces and addresses hunger-driven coprophagia.

• Switch to a higher-quality diet — look for an AAFCO statement of complete and balanced nutrition, with a named animal protein as the first ingredient and crude fiber below 5% for adult maintenance. Diets with higher digestibility leave less undigested material in stool, making it less appealing.
• Divide meals into smaller, more frequent portions — feeding 3 times daily instead of once or twice maintains steadier blood sugar and reduces hunger-driven scavenging.
• Add digestive enzyme supplements — products like Digestive Enzymes for Dogs by NaturVet ($15–$22 for 100 scoops) or ProZyme ($20–$28) can improve nutrient absorption. Use per label instructions based on your dog's weight.
• Supplement with fiber — adding 1–2 teaspoons of plain canned pumpkin (not pie filling) per 20 lb of body weight to meals can increase satiety. Alternatively, psyllium husk powder at ½ teaspoon per 20 lb of body weight, mixed into food.
• Ensure adequate calorie intake — use the Resting Energy Requirement (RER) formula: RER = 70 × (body weight in kg)^0.75. Multiply by 1.6 for a typical neutered adult dog. If your dog is below their calculated needs, increase portions gradually.

Step 3: Taste Deterrents (Variable Effectiveness)

Commercial coprophagia deterrents make the dog's own feces taste unpleasant. These work by adding ingredients to the dog's food that pass through the digestive system and alter the taste of the resulting stool.

Important limitation: Taste deterrents only work on your dog's own feces. They will not prevent your dog from eating another dog's, a cat's, or wildlife feces. For those scenarios, environmental management and training are essential.

Step 4: Positive Reinforcement Training (2–6 Weeks)

Training replaces the coprophagia behavior with an incompatible alternative. Use only force-free, positive reinforcement methods — punishment-based approaches (yelling, rubbing the dog's nose in feces, shock collars) increase anxiety and can make the behavior worse.

The "Leave It" Protocol:

1. Foundation (Days 1–5): Hold a low-value treat in a closed fist. When your dog sniffs and backs away, mark with "yes!" and reward from your other hand with a higher-value treat (e.g., small piece of chicken or cheese). Repeat 10–15 times per session, 2–3 sessions daily.
2. Progression (Days 6–10): Place the low-value treat on the floor, covered by your hand. Say "leave it." When your dog looks away, mark and reward from your hand. Gradually remove your hand cover over successive trials.
3. Generalization (Days 11–21): Practice "leave it" with increasingly tempting items during walks — leaves, sticks, trash. Use a 6-foot leash for control. Reward generously with high-value treats for compliance.
4. Real-world application (Week 4+): During supervised potty breaks, have high-value treats ready. The moment your dog finishes eliminating, call them away enthusiastically and reward immediately. This creates a "potty then come get a treat" routine that makes leaving feces more rewarding than eating it.

The "Come Away" Recall: Teach a specific recall cue for post-potty. Every time your dog eliminates, immediately call them with a cheerful "come!" and reward with 2–3 small high-value treats (freeze-dried liver, training-size Zuke's Mini Naturals at $8–$12 per 6 oz bag). The goal is to make coming to you after eliminating more rewarding than lingering to eat feces. Practice this 2–3 times daily for at least 4 weeks until the response is automatic.

Dietary Additives and Home Remedies: What Works and What Doesn't

The internet is full of home remedies for coprophagia. Here's an evidence-informed breakdown:

Commonly Suggested Remedies — Evaluated

• Pineapple chunks (fresh): Contains bromelain, an enzyme that may alter stool taste. Anecdotal evidence suggests moderate effectiveness for some dogs. Safe in small quantities — feed 2–3 small chunks per 30 lb of body weight daily. Not a standalone solution.
• Meat tenderizer (papain-based): Works on the same principle as commercial deterrents. Use unseasoned varieties only (Adolph's Unseasoned, $3–$5). Dose: ¼ teaspoon per 20 lb body weight mixed into food. Avoid seasoned versions containing onion or garlic powder at harmful concentrations.
• Apple cider vinegar: Limited evidence for effectiveness. Adding 1 teaspoon per 20 lb body weight to water is generally safe but unlikely to resolve coprophagia on its own. May slightly alter stool pH.
• Breath mints or mouthwash: Do NOT use. Many contain xylitol, which is highly toxic to dogs and can cause fatal hypoglycemia and liver failure. If your dog ingests any product containing xylitol, call the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 immediately (a consultation fee applies).
• Hot sauce or cayenne pepper on feces: Can cause oral and GI irritation, eye damage if the dog paws at their face, and may damage the human-dog trust bond. Not recommended by veterinary behaviorists.

Special Scenarios: Cat Poop, Other Dogs' Poop, and Wildlife Droppings

Many dogs are specifically drawn to cat feces — often called "kitty rocca" by frustrated owners — because cat food is typically higher in protein and fat than dog food, making cat stool more nutritionally dense and appealing.

Stopping Cat Litter Box Raiding

• Physical barriers: Install a pet gate with a small cat door (Carlson Pet Products Walk-Thru Gate with pet door, $55–$70) or use a top-entry litter box.
• Litter box placement: Move the box to a room your dog cannot access. Use a door strap (Door Buddy, $18–$22) that allows the door to open just wide enough for the cat.
• Clean more frequently: Scoop the litter box at least twice daily. A self-cleaning litter box (Litter-Robot 4, $550–$700) removes waste within minutes of use, eliminating the opportunity entirely.
• Deterrent sprays: Spray the area around the litter box with a pet-safe deterrent like Grannick's Bitter Apple Spray ($10–$14). Note: effectiveness varies by individual dog.

Preventing Wildlife Feces Consumption

Geese, rabbit, and deer droppings in yards are a common trigger. Management strategies include:

• Walk your yard each morning before letting your dog out and remove any wildlife droppings.
• Use motion-activated sprinklers (Orbit Yard Enforcer, $60–$80) to deter wildlife from entering your yard.
• Keep grass mowed short to make droppings more visible and easier to spot and remove.
• For goose-heavy areas, consider a trained goose-deterrent dog service or install visual deterrents like reflective tape or predator decoys.

When Coprophagia Won't Stop: Working With Professionals

If you've implemented environmental management, dietary changes, and training consistently for 6–8 weeks without improvement, it's time to escalate to a professional.

Who to Consult and When

You can find a veterinary behaviorist through the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists directory, and certified trainers through the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers searchable database.

Preventing Coprophagia in Puppies: Start Early

Prevention is significantly easier than correction. If you have a new puppy, implementing these practices from day one dramatically reduces the likelihood of coprophagia becoming an established habit:

• Supervise every potty break from 8 weeks onward. Leash your puppy, allow them to eliminate, then immediately redirect with a treat or toy and praise.
• Pick up feces immediately — don't give the puppy a chance to investigate or mouth it.
• Provide ample enrichment — food puzzles (Kong Classic, $12–$18; Outward Hound Nina Ottosson puzzles, $15–$30), sniff walks, and chew toys reduce boredom-driven coprophagia.
• Feed a nutritionally complete puppy diet — AAFCO-approved for growth/all life stages, with adequate protein (minimum 22% dry matter basis for puppies) and fat (minimum 8.5% DM).
• Begin "leave it" training at 10–12 weeks — puppies can learn impulse control early, and establishing the behavior before coprophagia starts is far easier than breaking an established habit.
• Avoid punishment — never rub a puppy's nose in feces, yell, or physically punish. This creates fear and can lead to the puppy hiding to eliminate or eating feces to "hide the evidence."

Frequently Asked Questions About Coprophagia